Kampong Ayer — literally “water village” — is a cluster of neighbourhoods built on stilts in the Brunei River, directly opposite the modern city centre. People have lived here for centuries: when the chronicler of Magellan’s expedition, Antonio Pigafetta, visited in 1521 he described a great city built on the water. For most of Brunei’s history, this was the capital.
Today it is home to roughly ten thousand people (the figure has fallen as families move to land), living in dozens of villages joined by kilometres of wooden and concrete boardwalks. It has its own schools, mosques, clinics, police and fire stations, and homes with electricity, piped water and air-conditioning. It is a living community, not a museum — which is exactly what makes a visit worthwhile.
Top things to do at Kampong Ayer
Cross by water taxi
Small wooden speedboats, known locally as perahu tambang, wait at the jetties along the waterfront. Wave one down and you are across in a minute or two. The fare for the short crossing is around B$1 per person; agree it before you step in.
Start at the Cultural & Tourism Gallery
Directly opposite the city waterfront, the Kampong Ayer Cultural & Tourism Gallery explains the history, crafts and daily life of the village in a few small rooms, and has a viewing tower over the rooftops. Entry has been free; it generally closes around midday on Fridays.
Wander the boardwalks
From the gallery you can walk for a long way along the raised walkways, past houses painted in every colour, pot plants, cats and satellite dishes. Be polite, keep to the public walkways and ask before photographing people or the inside of homes.
Take a boat tour or visit a home
The village is too large to see on foot. An hour by boat shows you the newer government-built houses, the schools and the mosque, and a guided tour can include tea and cakes in a family home — the most memorable way to understand the place.
How to get to Kampong Ayer
- By water taxi: from any jetty on the city waterfront (near Jalan McArthur and the Yayasan complex). Boats run from early morning until late evening.
- On a tour: city tours and river safaris nearly always pass through Kampong Ayer, and some stop for a walk.
- By road and on foot: parts of the village on the city side can be reached by footbridge from near the Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque.
Insider tips
- For a longer private boat ride, agree the price and duration first. As a rough guide, expect to pay tens of dollars per boat per hour rather than per person; the rate is negotiable.
- Boardwalks can be uneven and some sections have no handrail. Wear proper shoes and watch children closely.
- Go in the morning or late afternoon; there is very little shade at midday.
- Dress modestly, as you would in any residential area in Brunei.
Best tours & tickets for Kampong Ayer
These experiences are the easiest way to see Kampong Ayer:
Small-group tour Bandar Seri Begawan: Kampong Ayer and River Safari Tour
A small-group guided tour of Kampong Ayer, often called the world’s largest stilt settlement. You learn the village’s history and cross its walkways, then set off on a river safari to see proboscis monkeys.
- Guided walk through Kampong Ayer
- Learn the history of the water village on its walkways
- River safari to see proboscis monkeys
Guided city tour from €187 Bandar Seri Begawan: Guided City Tour with Water Village
The most complete introduction to the capital that you can book in advance. A guide takes you to the Jame’ Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque, out onto the Brunei River by boat and into a family home in Kampong Ayer for tea and cakes.
- Visit the Jame’ Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque
- Boat ride on the Brunei River
- Tea and cakes at a local house in Kampong Ayer
Private boat tour from €56 Cuti Brunei Muara Wildlife Cruise
A private-group cruise through Kampong Ayer and on into quiet mangroves, with the chance to see proboscis monkeys and crocodiles and views of the royal palace. Pickup and a meal are listed as included.
- Explore Kampong Ayer and see traditional life
- Tranquil mangroves with proboscis monkeys and crocodiles
- Views of the royal palace
